Ok ok, cheesy and possibly overused title referencing a book that is only tangentially about maintenance of any kind.
For the sake of this post, let’s ignore “Zen” for now (which I know basically nothing about) and talk about bicycle maintenance (which I know a whole bunch about). I certainly can’t cover everything in one blog post. There are countless books on the subject (do people still read service manuals?) and things are constantly being updated as technology marches steadily on. I can, however, share my ritual that I perform approximately one to two weeks before any major ride, event, or race. Glamorous? No. Satisfying? You betcha.
Let’s start with a clean bike. Give it a quick rinse, lather it up with some water and Dawn dish soap (is anyone from Procter & Gamble reading this? #sponsorme) to help cut grease buildup on the drivetrain, and rinse everything off with a hose when you’re done. Towel dry what you can; compressed air may be helpful for the hard to reach places.
Wheels off!
Remove both wheels and give both tires a quick visual, looking for tread wear, cracks from age, and any small cuts or punctures that you may not have noticed. Pull the valve cores and check sealant levels using a small zip tie or allen wrench as a dipstick. Make sure the valve stems are free of any dried sealant, and consider installing new cores if it’s been tough to get air in or out of your tires.
Feel the hubs. You don’t need to be a bearing whisperer to tell when they’re worn. Bearings should turn smoothly and quietly, with no lateral (side to side) or axial (up and down) play. Crunchy? Noisy? Might be time to stop by your local bike shop unless you’re comfortable digging deeper.
Check for any broken, damaged, or loose spokes. Measure spoke tension if you have the means. If you don’t have the tools, plucking the spokes like a guitar string will at least identify any that are severely loose or tight. Spokes should all have approximately the same pitch.
Now is also a good time for a quick brake inspection. Disc brake pads often feel and function fine right up until they are completely worn out! As a reference: when pads are brand new, the friction material is just a little thicker than the backing plate. Are yours gettin’ skinny?
Chain off!
Quick measure your chain with a chain wear indicator (available at any local bike shop for $10-$20), and pop it off with a masterlink pliers (also $10-$20 at your LBS). If it’s worn out, or nearly worn out; replace it. If it’s BAD worn out proceed with caution: you may need a new cassette too ($$$…this is why we measure our chains frequently often). If you have the tools and/or motivation to do so, remove the cassette and derailleur pulleys, too: although they can be cleaned on the bike it’s easier to be thorough when everything is disassembled.
Soak the chain in some mineral spirits or simple green. Scrub, rinse, repeat as needed. The cleaner the better (especially if you wax!). Old school tip: soak your chain in a plastic pop bottle partially filled with solvent. Thread the cap on and shake periodically to release any grit. Contaminated solvent can be dumped out and refilled as needed. Cut the top off the bottle to get the chain out. Let it air dry, or blow dry with compressed air.
Scrub the cassette, derailleur pulleys, and chainring. It’s hard not to make a mess if they’re still on the bike, but again: the cleaner the better.
While the chain is off, give the crank arms a spin. It’s way easier to identify noisy bottom bracket bearings when they’re isolated from the rest of the drivetrain.
Reinstall your nice clean parts.
And don’t forget to lube your nice clean chain! Cleaning and lubricating your bike is the equivalent of unplugging it and plugging it back in. Making noise? Try this first.
Give the wheels a quick spin and make sure they’re straight (heads up: a tire that is not fully seated can disguise itself as a tweaked wheel and is not at all uncommon) and that the brake pads are not contacting the rotors.
With the bike on the ground, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and backward a little. Any play in the front end is usually a loose headset. Pick up the front of the bike and turn the handlebars back and forth. There should be no sad crunchy bearing sounds or drag. Overly tight headset bearings are very common, especially after swapping stems. That top cap doesn’t need to be that tight, people! Draw the top cap bolt down just enough to take up any play in the headset bearings, then tighten up the bolts on the stem. Done!
Feel the pedals for any play in the bearings; this is another very common issue, especially with you high mileage riders!
Double check the torque on the stem bolts, crank bolts, chainring bolts, axles/skewers, suspension hardware, and brake caliper bolts (and any other important bolts that I’ve forgotten to mention).
Anything electronic on your bike? AXS batteries (don’t forget about the coin cell batteries in electronic shifters or power meters)? Computer? Lights? Charge ‘em up.
Test Ride.
And not just up and down your driveway. Go out for a regular ride and just ride like you normally would. Any brake noise? Is the chain skipping under heavy load? Maybe you made things worse? No worries! This is why we do these things a week or two before the main event (see paragraph one). You still have time to try again, grab any replacement parts if needed, or seek professional help.
But hopefully everything is smooth and quiet and we have guaranteed that nothing could possibly go wrong, right?!
Well, no.
Crashes, flat tires, and even mechanical failures can and do happen at inopportune times. But we can now approach our race with confidence, knowing that we have addressed the variables that are in our control. We’ll just have to roll with whatever else happens along the way.
Maybe that’s our Zen.
Thank you to Aaron Schutter @aaron_two_tired for being our 2026 Iceman Trailblazer.

